I hear and feel the lull, while each wave might draw a hypnotic breath. It took me, lifted me in the quiet and the harmony.
I watch a bird fly over the pink horizon. All around me the golden fleck and crumb of the air and water, like a haze dwindling around me and my board in turn will watch it too.
The gritty feel of the ground-down earth entwined with my toe, and knee-bend and finger, only one of each which join together with my board, and the thick black cord that will grab and claw at my feet, entangled.
My groggy heady gaze glued to the eagle that will gloat and fly on forever will only waver for the next deep breath, and the kindred heave of the ocean. While each piece of it will become home to a different creature, with each new waking moment.